Where to Go: The Kröller-Müller Museum, Netherlands

“I put my heart and my soul into my work, and have lost my mind in the process.” ~Vincent Van Gogh

Cafe Terrace at Night, one of my absolute favorite Van Goghs.

Take a day trip from Amsterdam, find your way into the heart of the national park Hoge Veluwe, and you will discover one of the art gems of the world. The Kröller-Müller Museum is a treasure trove of art, especially from one of the Netherlands’ most famous artists: Vincent Van Gogh. 

Van Gogh has always fascinated me: not only his work, but his way of seeing the world. His mental instability and his constant search for something new and fulfilling made him unhappy for most of his life, but from that sadness blossoms the fruit of his work: full-bodied figures, landscapes that crackle like fire, and brushstrokes of such skill that they bring tears to my eyes.

Mary and Elly took me to the museum and turned me loose in the galleries, where I wandered in a trance from painting to painting. I saw some of my all-time favorites by Van Gogh. Most impressive to me was Cypresses with Two Women. I can show you a photograph, but it can’t convey the brushstrokes. They jumped off the page, robust and vivid, piled on so thick that it almost looked like a relief. The trees are tangles of olive flames, quivering on the canvas. The trees, like the trees in most of his paintings, are alive.

Zelfportret, 1867

I spent a long time looking at Van Gogh’s Zelfportret, 1867. His eyes stared at me. Not empty, like the eyes of a photograph. He put his heart and soul into his work, and they are still there, still caught up in the brushstrokes, staring out at me. He looks exhausted, a bit wary, trying to decide whether to be intrigued or apathetic. I wish I could talk to him. I wish I could tell him about the millions of people who appreciate his art, and tell him how much his paintings move me. But the canvass is silent, and his body is dust in the grave. So I just give a nod to the painting, wipe the tears from my eyes, and move on.

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Why you should go: Even someone who knows nothing about art will recognize a few of the paintings on display, and art enthusiasts need to bring a jacket because they will get chills every time they turn a corner and see another masterpiece. You’ll find art by Georges Seurat, Auguste Rodin, Paul Gaugin, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, and many others as well.

How to get there: The museum is nestled in the heart of the Hoge Veluwe National Park in the Netherlands. By bus or car it’s only a couple hours outside of Amsterdam. I will let the museum’s website do the talking.

What to bring: The fee for park entrance and museum admission is 16,40 euros for adults (unbelievably worth it). Bring a purse or knapsack instead of a backpack; you’ll have to wear it in front or lug it around with one hand. 

What to do: Not only is there a spacious indoor section, but the museum also features a large sculpture garden. Take advantage of both these features and make an afternoon of it. Also, if you have a few extra euros, check out the local organic food at Monsieur Jacques, located inside the museum. I had the most amazing Brie sandwich in the world there.

What else you need to know: It’s not a huge museum, so feel free to take your time. It features a lot of modern art, so you can skip a big section of the displays if you’re not interested in blank canvasses and blocks of wood. Finally, you should learn how to pronounce the artist’s name in his native language. Say “Vincent,” with a nondescript European accent, then follow it with “von,” and end by saying a throaty “aw” with a huge clearing of your throat before and after the vowel. “Dank u wel, Vincent Van Gogh. Dank u wel.”

Country Road in Provence by Night. It was so beautiful that I cried when I saw it.

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