12 Amazing Cities I've Visited, Part Three

Here is the conclusion of the matter (a continuation, as you may have guessed, from Part One and Part Two). Since the cities I’ve visited most recently are all in Europe, you’ll find a lack of American cities in this final four. Here they are!

4. Amsterdam, the Netherlands. The Rijksmuseum alone would be enough to put this city in my top 12. It was my introduction to Europe, showing me that the painstakingly-crafted historic-looking cities in the US are copies of the real thing on the other side of the Atlantic. With scenic canals, amazing museums, and a vibrant cultural life, Amsterdam is more than worth the visit. (Hostel recommendation: Shelter City proved to be safe, clean, and friendly at a bargain price— well, bargain for Amsterdam.)

3. Hamburg, Germany. The thing that impressed me about this city was the care and craftsmanship that seemed to go into every building. From the sweeping harbor views to the tucked-away cottages, this city is both grand and charming. Take a ride on the ferry for the best views of the city and harbor.

2. Nuremberg, Germany. I can’t even explain how much this city impressed and fascinated me. It is magnificent on every scale, and from the medieval castle to St. Lorenzkirche to the house of Albrecht Dürer, there is plenty to see. The city tour, along with a tour of the castle, was more than worth the euros I spent (find English-speaking tours at the nearest Tourist Information office). Be sure to try some Lebkuchen (gingerbread) and Nürnberg sausages while you’re there.

1. Salzburg, Austria. I look back on the photos I took of this city and just gape. This is a city on an epic, but distinctly European, scale. The winding streets give way to huge courtyards, massive churches, and other buildings of remarkable beauty. The whole city climbs up a hill (read: mountain), on top of which perches a castle straight out of a fairy-tale. And if that wasn’t good enough, a mildly challenging hike from the city center takes you to views of the Alps that will blow your mind. If you are ever remotely near this city, take the time to spend at least a day.

What are your favorite cities? Which should I absolutely visit before I die?

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Where to Go: The Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam

Landscape at Twilight, 1890

After I stumbled out of the Rijksmuseum, dizzied and saturated by Dutch art, I wandered down the streets in search of a park where I could eat a Clif bar and recover from the amazingness. I almost made it past the Van Gogh Museum. Almost. Then I saw a building to my left with floor-to-ceiling windows emblazoned with copies of Sunflowers and Wheatfield with Crows, and I stumbled to a halt in front of the Van Gogh Museum. I didn’t mean to go here. I stubbornly walked past it and sat in the park and ate a Clif bar. But it wasn’t long before my feet strayed back to the same place, and I found myself pulling euro-bills out of my pocket and heading for the entrance. I just can’t stay away from Van Gogh.

Why you should go: As the name suggests, this is not a museum where you go to get a sweeping view of many different styles. The displays are mostly Van Gogh (surprise surprise), but there are also some features of artists who influenced him. Van Gogh’s paintings are much better in real life than they are in books. If you appreciate his work and want to see some of his most famous pieces, this is the place for you. 

The Potato Eaters, 1885

How to get there: The Van Gogh Museum is close to the Rijksmuseum and easily accessible by pretty much anywhere in the city. (Googlemaps will help you get around town.)

What to bring: The museum costs 14,00 euros. Cameras aren’t allowed, so be prepared to either write down the names of the paintings you like (as I did), or else bring money to buy postcards of the paintings you particularly want to remember.

What to do: Before you head to the displays, take the escalator downstairs and watch the 20-minute documentary about Van Gogh’s life. It’s spoken in Dutch but has English subtitles. Then go on to the displays, which chronicle Van Gogh’s work in his short life as a painter.

What else you need to know: Not all of the paintings have commentary, so it might be worth it to spend an extra five euros to get the audio tour (available in English). There is only one floor of Van Gogh displays, so I actually went through them twice: once up close, observing his technique, and once about six feet away from each painting, appreciating the way they change from a mass of thick paint to a breathtaking view of pear trees at sunset. You might find a new favorite.

The verdict? I’m glad that I visited. If I had it to do again, I would take a longer break in between the two museums in order to recharge my brain. Featuring some of the most innovative and famous paintings in the world, the Van Gogh Museum is definitely worth the price.

The Bedroom, 1888

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Where to Go: The Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

This painting is huge. I had no idea how big it was.

Jan Vermeer created fewer than forty paintings
in his lifetime. This is one of them.

I spent my final day in Europe fawning over Amsterdam’s museums. Tomorrow I’ll tell you about the Van Gogh museum, but first, you need to know about the Rijksmuseum (rhymes with “bikes museum”). The museum is under construction right now, so they consolidated their most famous pieces into a single wing. This wing alone is worth every last euro-cent of the admission price. The short story? If you’re ever within a hundred kilometers of this place, go.

Why you should go: It’s a history, culture, and art museum rolled into one. It features famous paintings such as Nightwatch and showcases some of the best artists in the history of the world. 

How to get there: The Rijksmuseum is close to the city center of Amsterdam; I just walked there from my hostel. The city also has a good public transportation system, easily accessible via Googlemaps.

What to bring: The museum costs 14,00 euros. If you want to take time to appreciate each painting, wear insoles— you’ll need them! Cameras are permitted, so if you want to take blurry photos, bring one and turn off the flash beforehand.

That's Nightwatch behind me!
Really it is!

What to do: The wing is set up in chronological order, with different rooms dedicated to different aspects. There is a whole room devoted to china, another to dollhouses, another to Rembrandt and his pupils. Plaques on the walls (written in English as well as Dutch) explain the time period of each room’s pieces, so there is a lot to absorb and learn even if you know nothing about art.

What else you need to know: If you visit while the museum is still under construction (until 2013), you’ll have time to look at every single painting. (If you visit after the whole museum reopens, then definitely do some research beforehand to figure out what you most want to see.) Almost every painting is accompanied by a plaque in English to help you understand the historical/cultural background, interpret the symbolism, and appreciate the technique. This is a must-see for anyone who enjoys art. Spend a few hours— you’ll be glad you did.

Outside the Rijksmuseum. I'm actually glad I didn't have to be overwhelmed with the whole museum.

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Where to Go: Openluchtmuseum, Arnhem, Netherlands

A fisherman's cottage. People were shorter back then.

Yesterday, Mary and Elly took me to an open-air museum that has the catchphrase, “Holland in Just One Day.” While most places claim that you could spend all day there, this Openluchtmuseum really lives up to that. With several dozen historic buildings, not to mention all the living history programs, the museum is large enough that you could arrive at opening (10:00) and stay until it closed at five, and you still might not see everything.

Why you should go: If you want to get a sweeping view of the Netherlands’ history from the 1600s to the present, this is the place for you. I enjoyed the sense of time that I felt as I touched the reed-roofed buildings and thought about life in the “olden days.”

How to get there: Arnhem is a city in eastern Netherlands. The museum is accessible by car (4,50 euros for parking) and public transit.

Inside a wealthy farmer's house.

What to bring: The museum costs 14,95 euros. Bring good walking shoes, a backpack with snacks and water, a camera, and some spending money. You can even take along your dog, as long as it’s on a leash.

What to do: Get a map at the front desk and wander from building to building. You’ll encounter several windmills (you can go up in the biggest one), cottages from different eras, a Protestant church, a maze, old tollbooths and weigh-stations, farmhouses, barns, fields full of old crops and goats, and all sorts of miscellaneous structures. While some of the displays are only in Dutch, the plaques outside each building have a section in English. Mary, Elly and I got an olde-time photo taken, and also sat outside to eat traditional poffertjes, pancakes the size of coasters and served with butter and powdered sugar. 

What else you need to know: You probably won’t see everything if you take your time, so look at the map and prioritize. Then take a deep breath and plunge into the world of the Netherlands, past and present!

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